In modern shops, the selection of hunting firearms is so vast that one's eyes inevitably start to wander, especially for inexperienced or novice hunters. However, such a wealth of choice can lead to the purchase of a completely unsuitable shotgun for those just starting to master this challenging pursuit. This article is created precisely for those who are pondering the choice of their first hunting shotgun. It includes brief reviews of the most common imported and domestic shotguns, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as direct recommendations for selection. The choice of firearm for a beginner hunter is limited to smoothbore models only, as rifled firearms can only be acquired after five years of owning a smoothbore one.
Which Shotgun Should a Beginner Hunter Buy?
Double-barreled or Single-barreled
The first question that every novice typically asks is precisely this: which shotgun is more optimal, convenient, and, of course, cheaper. The choice in this case is not particularly large – only two double-barreled shotguns are produced on the domestic market: the horizontal MP (IZH)-43 in various configurations and the vertical MP (IZH)-27 (in the vertical shotgun, the barrels are positioned one above the other; in the horizontal one, respectively, on the same horizontal line).
The single-barreled shotgun is produced in only one variant – the MP (IZH)-18. Many beginner hunters lean towards the latter option as their first shotgun, citing reliability, durability, and low cost. However, they often overlook the qualities that are essential for a novice. Let's elaborate on this.
A beginner hunter will be learning – learning to hunt and shoot. The ability to fire two shots without taking the shotgun from the shoulder is much more convenient than having to reload after each shot and then re-aim. This point alone clearly favours a double-barreled shotgun as the first firearm for a beginner hunter. However, there is another important aspect. In a double-barreled shotgun, you have two cartridges of different types ready to fire. No, we are not talking about those mythical scenarios where one barrel has a shot cartridge and the second...
– with a bullet in case of a sudden encounter with a bear. In practice, hunters
who use this method are not encountered. This refers to the fact that both barrels
are loaded with cartridges of different shot numbers. This is precisely the
universally applied option.
The use
of a single-barreled shotgun is much more limited, and it is chosen by hunters
for whom weight is important, and who are satisfied with a single aimed shot at
game – most often it is a sitting bird or a standing animal. This is usually the
choice of experienced, not novice, professional hunters. After the design of the
shotgun has been chosen – let's still stick with the double-barreled one, as it
is more suitable for a beginner – the vector of choice moves to another point.
Side-by-side or
over-and-under?
Still, most
hunters express a preference for the over-and-under, explaining their choice by
the fact that it is more convenient to manipulate one barrel in front of their
eyes. But this is a matter of habit, as a beginner will not be able to appreciate
such a minor advantage due to lack of experience. The choice between a side-by-side
and an over-and-under is purely a matter of taste, as their differences are so
small that they ultimately do not matter. For example, a side-by-side is more
convenient to break for reloading even when sitting in a car due to a smaller
break angle, while an over-and-under shoots more accurately at long distances.
This is due to the fact that at distances over 100 meters, charges from the
right barrel begin to shift to the left, and from the left – to the right, while
vertical displacement is compensated by gravity. But such details can only be
noticed at impressive shooting distances.
Pump-action
shotguns
The main
advantage of pump-action firearms is the ability to use absolutely any cartridges
of the appropriate caliber. This works well with both reduced and increased loads.
The use of shells and traumatic cartridges of any length for which the chamber is
designed is permissible, while the reloading method remains unchanged –
shot, fore-end back, forward – that's it, the shotgun is ready to fire again.
Forget about failures and short-feeds. It is this reliability and unfailing
operation that explains the popularity of this type of weapon in the USA, where
hunters prefer to use it both for hunting feathered game and for tracking
dangerous and large animals.
Special attention
should be paid to rifled barrels. In Russia, short barrels without chokes, but
with pronounced sighting elements, are called rifled barrels. They allow firing
any full-bore or sub-caliber bullet, but since it is stillsmooth barrels, they are also suitable for shooting buckshot or shot. They often
yield good results when hunting with a dog.
Semi-automatic shotguns
This type of shotgun
features an impressive ammunition capacity. An example is the renowned MP-155.
There is no need to perform any additional actions – breaking open, reloading,
working the forend – you just need to aim and pull the trigger. If you run out of
rounds, place a cartridge on the loading tray, press the bolt release button,
and load the cartridges into the tubular magazine. Such firearms are preferable
when rapid firing with a single type of ammunition is required, for example,
when shooting waterfowl in large numbers.
However, like any other type of firearm, semi-automatics also have
their drawbacks. The main one is that they are more demanding regarding cartridge
quality and shot load compared to break-action and pump-action shotguns, and
they consume a lot of ammunition during shooting. It is better to learn with a
shotgun that allows for a brief pause and a moment to gather oneself, whereas a
semi-automatic shotgun can incite excitement, resulting in uncontrolled firing
without regard for ammunition and careless aiming. If rapid firing is considered
the primary advantage, then with experience, a similar rate of fire can be
achieved with a pump-action shotgun.
We have reviewed the main types of hunting firearms and would like
to add a few more details – single- and double-barrel shotguns equally handle
any loads – both factory-made and hand-loaded. Pump-action shotguns are also
versatile in this regard, whereas semi-automatics are quite capricious – their
demanding nature regarding cartridge quality and lubrication distinguishes this
type of firearm.
Which shotgun calibre should a beginner hunter choose
When choosing a hunting shotgun for a novice, it is important
to select the correct calibre. The most common calibres in Russia are as
follows:
· 12 gauge.
This calibre is chosen when versatility is important, as such a shotgun can fire
shot, buckshot, and slugs. It is suitable for hunting both large game – wild
boar, bear – and small game – ducks, geese, hares.
· 16 gauge
shotguns are lighter, have less recoil, and are a suitable option for stalking
hunts.
· 20 gauge
shotguns are often referred to as "women's" due to their light recoil. They are
intended for hunting small game – ducks, hares. Hunting larger game with such
firearms –a dubious undertaking. For example, a bear is a tough animal, and even after being wounded by a larger calibre, it can fight back against the hunter.
What to remember when choosing a hunting rifle
· A rifle with a tubular magazine or detachable magazine used to be heavier than a single- or double-barrelled gun, but now the use of light alloys and plastics in the forend and stock practically evens them out in weight, and with proper care, a semi-automatic is not inferior to a double-barrelled gun in reliability. Example:
· MP-155 (semi-automatic) - weight for 12 gauge: 3.1-3.2 kg (710 mm barrel)
· IZh-27 (double-barrelled) Rifle weight from 3.1 to 3.65 kg depending on barrel length and gauge, barrel length 660-750 mm.
· A rifle is a complex mechanism that requires high precision in manufacturing, so opt for well-known brands that have proven themselves.
· A magazine single-barrel rifle does not allow for changing the shot pattern of buckshot, but this problem can be solved with the help of chokes.
· To extract spent cartridges in non-automatic weapons, extractors and ejectors are used. They are characteristic of break-action guns. The former simply push out the cartridges, which are convenient to pick up by hand, while the ejector throws them out sharply. A rifle with an ejector is faster to reload, but remember that when hunting at night or on water, the cartridges are likely to be lost.
Choosing a rifle in the shop
· We have decided that a beginner is better off choosing a 12 gauge, as it can be used in a wide variety of conditions. Now, let's continue the selection considering the following parameters:
· Inspect the future purchase for defects – dents, chips, cracks, gaps. Remember that any gap is an entry point for dirt into the heart of the mechanism, leading to breakdowns. Do not take the sellers' word for it – the fact that the rifle is new does not mean it is in perfect working order; it is better to check everything yourself.
· An important point is the fit of the weapon. This means that even with numerous shouldering movements, the stock rests equally on the shoulder, while the line of sight should
to align with your line of sight with minimal adjustment.
· The shotgun should suit you in weight. If you plan to go driven hunting at least occasionally, then the weight should not be significant. A heavy shotgun on your back during many hours of walking can exhaust even a professional.
Buying a Shotgun Second-Hand
· Yes, and there is nothing shameful about it, but you need to know the nuances of such a purchase. The first thing we look at is the condition of the internal surface. To check, the cartridge case is removed, and the barrels are rotated along the axis of the bores. We wiggle them and look at the light. If there are small pits in the form of small spots or dull areas inside the barrels, these are minor defects that do not affect the durability of the shotgun and the quality of the shot. However, if there are signs of corrosion inside, then such an option should be rejected immediately.
· You should also be wary if the shotgun looks worn externally – a scuffed stock, burn marks around the firing pins, and the bores are perfectly smooth and shiny inside. This is an almost 100% guarantee that the shotgun has been "shustovano" (honed). Honing is the removal of a layer of metal from the inner surface of the barrels to remove rust, and almost always after this procedure, the shotgun loses its shooting quality. However, this applies to expensive imported models, as the procedure is quite costly and there is no point in applying it to domestic weapons.
· Also check the operation of the hammers, as they are responsible for the speed of the shot. When cocked, sharp, clear clicks should be heard. Checking the force of the firing pin strikes is also quite simple. Place a cartridge case on the firing pin and release the hammer. The cartridge case should jump up by at least half a metre.